So here we go.... WARNING: picture intensive
The 6 flights I had to take on my holiday were all less than perfect, due to various reasons and the complete inability to do the online check ins as planned, I ended up in horrible seats each time (and being 5'11" having no leg room on an 8 hour flight is HORRENDOUS). When I left Cape Town the weather was a lovely 29 deg Celsius and landed 21 hours later to a refreshing 8 deg... bbbrrrrrrrrr doesn't even cover it.
Amman is in a word monochromatic. The exteriors of all the houses and buildings are covered in the same stone... some of it is smooth, some polished and slight variations in the colours make the city blend in with the surroundings... special permission is needed to add any colour, however the insides are a completely different story. The first highlight was the appearance of SNOW on my first day there, not allot but enough to cover the ground with a light dusting and, of course, to make snowballs (which I did). This was the first time that I had ever experienced snow and I had to go to a desert country to do it.
The next day we headed off to Jerash (Gerasa), which is considered to one of the most well preserved sights of Roman architecture outside of Italy. It was SPECTACULAR... I simply could not fathom the age of the place with most of it being established around the time of Christ. Artifacts have been found here dating back to the Neolithic age indicating that the site has been occupied for around 6 500 years. The oldest buildings and architecture we have in South Africa is from the 17th century. We spent 4 hours wondering the site, breathing in the architecture and enjoying the sounds of a traditional Jordanian band complete with BAGPIPES. Even though the sun was out we were still layered in jerseys and jackets and scarves and hats and gloves.
Food is a big part of life here and boy do they know how to do it... most meals were mezze's with flat bread, you know the kinds... lots of dips and fillers (humus, mutabal, fallafel, haloum) in the middle of the table and everyone just digs in. The local white wine is not much to write about... but the red went down really really well on these cold nights.
We then headed off to Petra once the roads had been cleared enough to make it through the pass. There was about 50-60 cm's of snow in the southern mountain areas and in most parts only enough space on the road for one car... so if you ended face-to-face with another vehicle you prayed it was at a section wide enough to pass or one of you ended up reversing till you found a spot (at times up to 2km's)... in the end we survived the 3 hour journey in tact. Petra is mind blowing, spectacular, breath taking... anyone who ever finds themselves in this part of the world HAS to make a trip to Petra (but budget on at LEAST 2 days to see most of it - and be prepared for lots of walking and hiking).
Winding our way through The Siq (a 1 km path through the mountain) you know that around one of the bends you will see the first view of The Treasury (made famous to the western world by Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom), and before you know it there it is in all it's massive glory. If you do come here make sure you enter the sight early (around 7AM) as it is quiet and you get to see the glorious pink and orange and red colours in the rocks that fade to grey in the noon day sun.
After taking in the awe of this site we headed off to climb the first of 2 mountains on that day. The 850 steps (taking about an hour to ascend) leads you up to The Monastery. The exhausting trek up ere is almost a required penance and preparation for this meditative place.
Click on the picture and see the person to get an idea of the scale of the place.
We spent about an hour up here feeling like we were on top of the world, before we headed back down and through the 'city' complex heading to our second mountain climb up to the High Place of Sacrifice. All along the main thoroughfare of Petra, now bustling with hundreds of tourist, are many many locals selling wares and each inviting you to join them for some Bedouin tea (which they make a point of telling us is for free). Along with these are the many donkey and camel 'operators' offering to take you to your destination.
After about another 45 min climb we reached the next destination which after all the ornateness below is rather unassuming... a large flat carved area with an alter and surrounded by raised stone seating. Apparently many years ago visitors to Petra would camp up here in summer sleeping under the starts. Following this tradition we lay on the rocks surrounding this one iconic place and had a short snooze soaking up the mid day sun warming the area.
The second day in Petra was spent exploring the low lying temples.. the Urn Tomb... the Royal Tombs... the Amphitheater... and I got to ride a camel.
After all the hiking my feet and legs greatly appreciated the relaxation at the Dead Sea the following day, which also happened to be New Years Eve. We opted for the quieter of the two parties happening at the hotel and ended up spending 4 hours eating a 6 course meal before blasting the new year in with trumpets and rattles and song. 1 January was enjoyed in the most incredible Spa I have ever been to... and one of my resolutions is to spend the 1st of Jan every year in a Spa.
Back to Amman for a one night stopover and then cross the border to Damascus, Syria. Now this is a city of conundrums... one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world, old and run down except for the odd new hotel, and then there is the old city with it's narrow streets lined with little shops and restaurants surrounding one of the oldest biggest Mosques. Inside the buildings is some of the most ornate tile work and mosaics and embellished ceilings in golds and blues and reds.
And at night thousand of people line the streets. The place only livens up around lunch time but then it says open till 3 or 4 AM This is the place where people come to see and be seen. It is also so the only place that I would have felt more comfortable if I had a man accompanying me (and it takes a lot for me to admit that). The woman here generally go out in large groups or with a male family member... and being a head taller than most of the locals didn't help me blend in all that much. 2 Days here shopping my little heart out meant that the taxi drivers gave me very odd looks with they saw me with suitcase, backpack and a wrapped painting, but laden with gifts we headed back to Amman for the last 2 days of my 2 week holiday.
This doesn't do the place near enough justice... it was all spectacular, breathtaking and have given me memories to last a lifetime.I have loaded 188 of the over 600 photos taken, here.... so please enjoy.
Words that I learnt while there (and please excuse the spelling... I have spelt them phonetically as you would pronounce them... more or less).
Thank you = Shoukran
response to that is Afwan
Hello = Marhaba... or the more traditional Salam Molekom (to which you respond Malekom Salam)
Goodbye = Masalama
No problem = Mishmushkala (love this one)
Right (directional) = Yameen
Left = Shmal
I also learned to count from 1 to 10 and to recognise Arabic numerals... well strictly speaking Indian... the entire Western world has adopted the true Arabic numerals (1,2,3 etc) here instead they use the Indian version.... OF COURSE.
Man there is just soooooo much more I would love to tell but fear I will bore you all to tears... you'll just have to go and experience it all yourself.
